Beef cheeks

1.Preheat oven to 150°C. Rinse beef cheeks and dry with paper towels. Trim off as much fat as you can, cutting the meat into irregular-shaped pieces through the lines of connective tissue. Dust with seasoned flour, reserving unused flour.

2.Heat 2½ tablespoons olive oil in a large heavy-based frying pan over medium-high heat and, when hot, add beef cheeks. Brown well, then transfer to a casserole.

3.Add 2 tablespoons oil to pan along with onion, carrots and celery. Lower heat to medium and brown the vegetables (don’t let them catch and burn). Stir in the garlic and rosemary and cook briefly, then tip everything into the casserole.

4.Add 1 tablespoon oil to pan and mix in reserved flour (if not enough flour remains to absorb oil, add a little more). Cook gently, scraping it around the pan with a metal spoon, until it changes from a pale greyish colour to a tan brown; don’t have the heat too high or it might burn. Remove pan from heat and let it cool for 2-3 minutes.

5.Pour in the stock a third at a time, stirring, and return it to the heat. Bring to the boil, stirring, then add wine, balsamic vinegar, salt and bayleaves. Bring liquid back to a gentle bubble, then pour over the meat and vegetables (it should barely cover them). Loosely drape contents in casserole with a piece of baking paper, then cover casserole with a lid. Cook for 2½ hours, stirring once or twice during cooking, until the meat is meltingly tender.

6.Remove casserole from oven and let it rest while making a potato mash. Reheat beef cheeks until piping hot, adding a little parsley. Spoon generous dollops of mash onto warmed plates and top with spoonfuls of beef. Serve immediately.