Known for turning small towns into international foodie destinations, Fleur launched Olivers in Clyde, Central Otago and is the woman behind Moeraki eatery Fleur’s Place.
Can you describe your earliest food memory?
Having the milk squirted into my mouth from the cow’s teat by my great aunt Bunny, Granddad’s sister.
What were the main challenges you faced when starting out in the food industry?
Getting anyone to take me seriously about where I was putting a restaurant, whether Cow Lane in Queenstown, Sunderland Street in Clyde or Onekaru Bay in Moeraki.
What has been the highlight of your career?
Olivers, without a doubt. I was in my late 30s and it was a magnificent project to be proud of. Nothing had been done like that before. It was all about the right time, the right place. Everything aligned. The energy we put into that place matched the achievement we felt. I had a great friendship with a fabulous local character, Artie Gye. He’s a descendant of the first Chinese gold miners, and one of my great memories of that time was him bellowing out loud one night, “If someone ever told me I had to book into a restaurant in Clyde, I would’ve eaten my bloody hat!”
You initially moved to Moeraki to step away from the hospitality scene – what changed?
Cancer is what happened. Cancer and chemo, once a week for a whole year. I never wanted to sell Olivers. I only sold because I didn’t know if I had a future. It felt like having my plate taken away from me before I was finished. The turning point for me in Moeraki was when I got invited out on a fishing boat for the day and all I could think about was how I could use what they threw away.
What do you think sets Otago apart from elsewhere as a food destination?
Our wonderful proximity to everything, our climate, our soil, our bountiful ocean. Our produce is so fresh, healthy, seasonal and produced really close by, whether it’s foraged herbs, flowers and mushrooms, Manuka honey or Maori potatoes. We are spoilt for choice with stone fruit, cheese, amazing craft beer and some of New Zealand’s most wonderful wine producers and spirit makers.
What is your favourite local produce and why?
Fish – just looking at the tubs of freshly caught Moeraki fish on the tray of the fisherman’s truck. When you’re hands-on, a foot from the ocean, it’s easier to reawaken a use for the fish and pioneer the art of waste not, want not. I’m so privileged to gather and harvest food from local resources.
What’s your go-to meal if you’re short on time?
I practically live at work, so when I’m starving I go to my awesome chefs and ask, “What can I have?” At home we love to have Shag Point free-range eggs for something quick and delicious.
What is your family’s favourite dinner?
Funnily enough, I actually produced a family of vegans, some of whom I have managed to successfully convert to pescetarians.
What’s the most important aspect of food for you?
Sharing. Sharing the delight of food with those who delight in it, in a beautiful environment that enriches others’ lives, is so fulfilling.
Among your fans is Rick Stein, who travelled to New Zealand specifically to experience Fleur’s Place. How much contact do you have with him today?
We touch base. He rings me. We talk about fish.
If you could dine with anyone, anywhere in the world, who would you choose, where and why?
Willie Nelson. Last time I met him, he only kissed my hand and said he’d promise more next time.
Where will you be in five years’ time?
Maybe at Willie Nelson’s house.
Photography by: Greg Keith.
This first appeared in Food magazine.
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