Pavlova
Pavlova is a meringue-based dessert named after feted Russian ballerina Anna Pavlova. It is crisp on the outside, soft, light and marshmallowy on the inside and is usually topped with fruit and whipped cream. The pavlova as we know it (there are around 50 known dishes named in honour of the prima ballerina) has been claimed by both New Zealand and Australia, but it is most likely to have originated with German-speaking immigrants heading to America. They brought with them meringue-based desserts called schaum torte (foam cake) and baiser torte (meringue cake) which are likely to be the ancestors of our beloved pav.
The introduction of the egg beater in the 1860s made it possible to whip up a mound of fluffy meringue in minutes. So what is this strange magic? The whipping action of the whisks forces the clumped proteins in egg whites to unfold and loosen. As air is incorporated into the mixture, the proteins form a network around the air bubbles, trapping air within the egg white to create a foam. And voilà! Meringue is born.
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Can I over-beat meringue?
Yes, you can. Over-beating egg whites ‘denatures’ the proteins, pulling them closer together, forcing out water trapped in the surface of the bubbles, resulting in a grainy, watery mess.
Over-beaten whites can’t be rescued. However, to reduce the chance of it happening, add an acid such as lemon juice, cream of tartar or vinegar. This stabilises the egg whites by lowering the pH which allows for the formation of more bonds between the proteins. In other words, acid gives the egg-white foam more flexibility, making it less likely to collapse or weep.
Trouble shooting tips
- The bowl and beaters must be scrupulously clean and grease free or the egg whites will not whip. Any trace of yolk in the egg whites will have a similar effect.
- When separating multiple eggs, avoid a yolk disaster by separating one white at a time into a cup, before placing in the mixing bowl. If the yolk breaks, you only waste one egg not the eight you’d already separated.
- Avoid plastic mixing bowls as they retain greasy residues which may prevent the egg whites from whipping.
- Line baking trays with non-stick baking paper to prevent meringues from sticking.
As a rough guide, use double the amount of sugar to egg white.
Always store or freeze meringues in an airtight container to prevent them absorbing moisture from the environment and becoming soft.
Scaling the snowy peaks
The Italians, French and Swiss all have different ways to make meringue
Swiss meringue
Swiss meringue is smoother, silkier and somewhat denser than French meringue and is often used as a base for buttercream frosting. It is quite stable and can be refrigerated for several hours without losing volume. It is prepared by gently beating egg whites and sugar in a pan sitting above boiling water. When the mixture reaches 50-60°C and the sugar has completely dissolved, the mixture is pulled off the heat and beaten vigorously to attain full volume, and then at a lower speed until cool and very stiff.
Make a batch of big, bouffy meringues.
Makes 12-14 depending on size
Measure 90-100g room-temperature egg whites (about 3) into a grease-free metal bowl and place over pan of simmering water. Add 200g caster sugar and gently beat with electric beaters. When sugar has dissolved, and before egg begins to cook (around 60°C on a cooking thermometer), stir in 1 pinch cream of tartar and take off heat. Beat until thick, bouffy and cool. Fold in colour or flavour, such as freeze-dried strawberry powder or peppermint essence, as desired and spoon or dollop with a cookie scoop onto baking paper-lined baking sheets. Bake at 100°C for 1 hour. Leave to cool in oven for a further 1 hour.
French meringue
French meringue is the most basic of the trio and the one we are most familiar with in New Zealand. Egg whites are beaten to form soft peaks and then sugar is slowly incorporated until mixture has attained full volume and is soft, airy and forms peaks when beaters are lifted. It is usually spooned or piped into different shapes such as dessert shells (eg vacherins) and cake layers (as in a dacquoise), then baked and topped with fruit, mousse or whipped cream. It also can be folded into batters for lady fingers, sponges, soufflés and so on.
Make a dacquoise from French meringue.
Serves 6-8
Beat 3 room-temperature egg whites to soft peaks. Add 220g caster sugar a little at a time, beating well after each addition. Draw three 20cm circles on baking paper-lined baking sheets and turn over paper. Following guides, spread or pipe meringue into circles and bake at 100°C for 1 hour. Leave in turned-off oven for 1 more hour to dry out. Layer discs with flavoured whipped cream (eg fold in ganache, Nutella, apricot purée or lemon curd), leave in fridge for several hours or overnight to soften before serving.
A wreath-shaped pavlova topped with berries will look stunning.
Serves 8
Preheat the oven to 180°C. Cover a baking sheet with non-stick baking paper, draw a 15-16cm circle on it and then turn paper over. In a large, grease-free bowl, whip 6 room-temperature egg whites into stiff peaks. Add 1½ cups caster sugar a little at a time, beating well after each addition until mixture is glossy. With a metal spoon fold in ¼ tsp vanilla paste,, 2 tsp cornflour and 1 tsp white vinegar. Spoon a broad circle of meringue blobs onto lined tray, using circle as a guide.
Place another round of slightly smaller blobs on top of the first to give the wreath height. Flatten the top just a little, place the tray in the oven and reduce temperature to 120°C. Bake without opening the oven for 2 hours. Turn off heat and leave in the oven till completely cool. Use a metal spatula to loosen the pavlova from the paper and slip it onto a serving plate. Spoon 300ml whipped cream on top of wreath then scatter on 1-2 punnets halved strawberries, 1 punnet blueberries and 1-2 handfuls cherries.
Italian meringue
Italian meringue requires hot sugar syrup at the ‘hard ball’ stage (when it reaches 121°C). The hot syrup is drizzled into egg whites that have already been whipped to hold firm peaks. Whipping continues until the mixture is billowy, satiny and cool. Italian meringue can be used to frost cakes and tarts without baking as the hot syrup has ‘cooked’ the egg whites (just leave to air dry). It is also used in buttercream, to lighten ice cream, sorbet, and mousse, and can be browned with a blow torch. Italian meringue is best made using a stand mixer as it is very difficult to maintain the temperature of the syrup and ensure an even pour while holding a mixer. A sugar thermometer is essential.
