In recent years the famous ‘fruitbowl of New Zealand’ has graduated from apples and avocados into something much more sophisticated. And while pipfruit remains very much a principal industry for the Hawke’s Bay, this east coast paradise has diversified into a region which is perfect for the ultimate foodie getaway.
Friday night lights
The Art Deco city of Napier is at its most beautiful when bathed in the afternoon light, so it’s the ideal first stop on an epicure’s journey.
A walk or cycle along Marine Parade will bring you to the Viewing Platform; an attractive solution to the problem of an ugly stormwater outfall jutting into the ocean. Dismissed, pre-construction, as an amateur idea, the Viewing Platform is now a hit with locals, tourists, and particularly brides, who love the white-on-white-on-blue beauty of the spot. Take in the prettiness and breathe. You’re in the Bay.
The Municipal Theatre is a stunning example of Art Deco style.
Exercise? Check. Time for a drink at Monica Loves, by far the coolest watering hole in town. Patronised largely by Nipsters (Napier hipsters), the bar is a cosy cavern spilling out into a concrete alleyway. It serves up superb cocktails, while the fried bread with rosemary and aioli is a must.
If you can, catch a show at Napier Municipal Theatre, which is a prime example of the Art Deco style; all wood paneling, kaleidoscopic carpet, pink Formica loos and plenty of neon. It’s fast becoming a favourite pit stop with local and international artists, performers, and orchestras.
Monica Loves is a cosy bar, popular with locals.
Another option is tackling the Napier Night Fiesta, which is held every Friday night from January 13 through to the end of February in Clive Square. Food trucks park up and wind out their awnings from around 4pm, with local heroes like the crimson Pipi Truck (piping hot pizzas) and Donut Robot (no explanation necessary) rubbing shoulders with newcomers such as Vagabond Jacks (a pan-global menu of wontons, tagine, salads and desserts).
Casual Saturday
If you’ve laid your weary head in Napier overnight, it would be remiss not to head directly to Mister D on Tennyson Street for breakfast. The fit-out is flawless and the menu a delight. The huge, fluffy, sugary doughnuts are what the place is famous for (they come with your choice of jam, custard or chocolate, delivered via plastic syringe), but make sure you also select something from their savoury offerings. The cheesy eggs are superb and a side of black pudding is also very highly recommended.
Burn off all that scrumptious saturated fat with a stroll around a stunning outdoor exhibition – Sea Walls: Murals for Oceans. It features breathtaking graffiti-style murals dotted around the city, which tell stories of climate change, sea level rise, pollution and eco-system destruction in a way that is equal parts compelling, confronting and charming. You can download the map at
Initially dismissed as an amateur idea, the Viewing Platform is a popular spot for dramatic photographs.
Next, jump in the car and head to Bare Knuckle Backyard BBQ in Hastings for lunch in their light-dappled garden. The brainchild of Auckland émigré Jimmy Macken and his wife Tamryn, this jovial country joint serves American-style barbecue – ribs, brisket, pulled pork and their famous ‘loaded fries’.
It also has craft beers and a range of hot sauces; including one under lock and key that is so hot it once caused an All Black to vomit. After you’ve filled your cowboy boots, you can relax in the hammock, feed the roaming chooks, or perhaps play some darts.
Bare Knuckle offers an American-style BBQ.
Ten minutes away in Havelock North, you might just be able to squeeze in a quick shop. Try Lolita for gorgeous handbags and shoes, Plowman Collective for tableware, stylish lampshades and furniture, Cauliflower for cushions, candles and gifts, as well as the wonderful Wardini Books for reading material.
Now it’s time to head to Deliciosa tapas bar to enjoy an early evening glass of wine. Local vineyards are very well represented here, and don’t forget to order the bar’s standout dish, the white anchovies on toast.
Swish Sunday
You shouldn’t even think about starting your Sunday without a trip to the Hawke’s Bay Farmers’ Market on Kenilworth Road, Hastings.
The kids can climb trees and feed eels while you browse around the stalls, perhaps enjoying a fresh juice from Coastal Squeeze or sampling traditional Korean kimchi from Old School Ferments.
The only way to start your Sunday is at the Farmers’ Market in Hastings.
Next, drive the 25 minutes or so out to Elephant Hill for lunch; it’s hands down the most impressive winery dining experience in Hawke’s Bay. Situated in the seaside community of Te Awanga, the aged copper building, with views across the vines to the water, is unique.
The menu is superb too, changing to take advantage of the seasons, so you might be enjoying everything from softshell crab on wombok leaves, to slow-cooked venison leg with tamarillo. Polite children are welcome (there’s a fabulous kids menu), and whatever you do, make sure you leave enough room for dessert.
Elephant Hill is a beautiful vineyard in the seaside community of Te Awanga.
Waddling yet? If you still have room (in stomach or suitcase) your final stop on the itinerary should be Arataki Honey Visitor Centre in Havelock North. Taste your way through their delectable range of honeys – from rewarewa to good old clover – and if you bring your own container, you can fill it up with your favourite then and there for a steal. It will be a sweet souvenir of a weekend spent feasting on the finest.
Story by : Fiona Fraser.
Photography by : Richard Brimmer, One Shot and Supplied.
This article first appeared in Food magazine.
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